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| Sysop: | Ray Quinn |
|---|---|
| Location: | Visalia, CA |
| Users: | 60 |
| Nodes: | 10 (0 / 10) |
| Uptime: | 64:18:47 |
| Calls: | 12 |
| Files: | 12,938 |
| Messages: | 99,116 |
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Looks like we're gonna have to put the Tahoe in the shop. We just
changed the fuel filter on it last week because the engine would
crank, but not turn over.
The new fuel filter is not OE, but a Wix (I think) replacement.
I drove it about 10 miles yesterday and we're back to square one --
crank but not run. It sounds to me like it isn't getting gas even
though the tank is half full.
Roger Nelson wrote to All:
Looks like we're gonna have to put the Tahoe in the shop. We just RW>RN> changed the fuel filter on it last week because the engine would
crank, but not turn over.
'but not start' ?
The new fuel filter is not OE, but a Wix (I think) replacement.Nothing wrong with a Wix, they make very good filters.
I drove it about 10 miles yesterday and we're back to square one -- RW>RN> crank but not run. It sounds to me like it isn't getting gas even RW>RN> though the tank is half full.
Remove the tank and replace the fuel pump...this is a typical in-tank
fuel pump problem...Some shops can R&R the tank without draining it.
Yours is half full, so don't put anymore in it until it gets fixed. If
you SIL is a mechanic, he should be able to do this in the driveway.
The new fuel filter is not OE, but a Wix (I think) replacement. RN>RW> Nothing wrong with a Wix, they make very good filters.
So does Fram.
Looks like we're gonna have to put the Tahoe in the shop. We just
changed the fuel filter on it last week because the engine would
crank, but not turn over. The new fuel filter is not OE, but a Wix
(I think) replacement. I drove it about 10 miles yesterday and
we're back to square one -- crank but not run. It sounds to me
like it isn't getting gas even though the tank is half full.
The new fuel filter is not OE, but a Wix (I think) replacement.Nothing wrong with a Wix, they make very good filters.
So does Fram.
I drove it about 10 miles yesterday and we're back to square one
-- crank but not run. It sounds to me like it isn't getting gas
even though the tank is half full.
Remove the tank and replace the fuel pump...this is a typical
in-tank fuel pump problem...Some shops can R&R the tank without
draining it. Yours is half full, so don't put anymore in it until it
gets fixed. If you SIL is a mechanic, he should be able to do this
in the driveway.
I know how to do all that stuff, but I've been limiting myself to
changing spark plugs because of my knees. Also, I don't have a
creeper and the necessary tools because I gave them all to my
youngest son after he got out of the Marine Corps.
Speaking of changing spark plugs, the Mercedes presents somewhat of
a problem in doing that. (-:
Anyway, I was afraid it might be the pump in the tank, but even worse would be the ECU! The one in my Lincoln died as no one can get a
reading from it.
Roger Nelson wrote to Roy Witt:
I know how to do all that stuff, but I've been limiting myself to
changing spark plugs because of my knees. Also, I don't have a
creeper and the necessary tools because I gave them all to my
youngest son after he got out of the Marine Corps.
This is why I said that your SIL can do it...
Speaking of changing spark plugs, the Mercedes presents somewhat of RW>RN> a problem in doing that. (-:
Told ya so...8^) Can't find um?
GM ECUs are very dependable, not invincible, but reliable.
How many miles are on this one? Over 100k?
Open the gas filler and have someone turn on the ignition. If the car has set a while, you should be able to hear the pump when the ignition is turned on, very briefly if the pump is good as it will shut off with back pressure from the fuel pressure regulator. If it doesn't come on and
stays on, then it's probably defective.
Open the gas filler and have someone turn on the ignition. If the car ha RN>RW> set a while, you should be able to hear the pump when the ignition is RN>RW> turned on, very briefly if the pump is good as it will shut off with bac RN>RW> pressure from the fuel pressure regulator. If it doesn't come on and RN>RW> stays on, then it's probably defective.
The SIL had a couple of mechanic friends come over yesterday, drop the gas t RN>(I think after performing the test you described above) and replaced the fue RN>pump. That did the trick, but I think he paid way too much for the pump -- RN>over $200. However, what's done is done.
My thanks to all who replied.
Roger Nelson wrote to Roy Witt:
I know how to do all that stuff, but I've been limiting myself to
changing spark plugs because of my knees. Also, I don't have a
creeper and the necessary tools because I gave them all to my
youngest son after he got out of the Marine Corps.
This is why I said that your SIL can do it...
He can't, either. He wouldn't know where to start. (-:
Speaking of changing spark plugs, the Mercedes presents somewhat
of a problem in doing that. (-:
Told ya so...8^) Can't find um?
I didn't say that, but the answer is no. :-) My guess is that it
will be pretty much the same as changing the plugs on the Lincoln.
GM ECUs are very dependable, not invincible, but reliable.
It wasn't that.
How many miles are on this one? Over 100k?
I don't remember. I know how many miles are on the MB, since I drive
it all the time.
Open the gas filler and have someone turn on the ignition. If the
car has set a while, you should be able to hear the pump when the
ignition is turned on, very briefly if the pump is good as it will
shut off with back pressure from the fuel pressure regulator. If it
doesn't come on and stays on, then it's probably defective.
The SIL had a couple of mechanic friends come over yesterday, drop
the gas tank (I think after performing the test you described above)
and replaced the fuel pump. That did the trick, but I think he paid
way too much for the pump -- over $200. However, what's done is
done.
My thanks to all who replied.
He can't, either. He wouldn't know where to start. (-:
I thought you said he was a mechanic.
I didn't say that, but the answer is no. :-) My guess is that it
will be pretty much the same as changing the plugs on the Lincoln.
Ever been under the hood of a BMW 740 series?
Those engine covers sure are pretty and they do a fine job of
hiding the engine. Good thing you don't have to lift the car to
change oil...it's all done under the hood. But where to start?
How many miles are on this one? Over 100k?
Open the gas filler and have someone turn on the ignition. If the
car has set a while, you should be able to hear the pump when the
ignition is turned on, very briefly if the pump is good as it will
shut off with back pressure from the fuel pressure regulator. If it
doesn't come on and stays on, then it's probably defective.
The SIL had a couple of mechanic friends come over yesterday, drop
the gas tank (I think after performing the test you described above)
and replaced the fuel pump. That did the trick, but I think he paid
way too much for the pump -- over $200. However, what's done is
done.
$200 is pretty close to what they cost wholesale and considering
how long they do last, probably worth every penny.
My thanks to all who replied.
Welcome, that's what we're here for.
The SIL had a couple of mechanic friends come over yesterday, drop
the gas tank (I think after performing the test you described above) and replaced the fuel pump. That did the trick, but I think he paid way too much for the pump -- over $200. However, what's done is
done.
$200 is pretty close to what they cost wholesale and considering
how long they do last, probably worth every penny.
I priced one online last Saturday for $90. The one he got was
an Airtex.
The SIL had a couple of mechanic friends come over yesterday, drop
the gas tank (I think after performing the test you described above) and replaced the fuel pump. That did the trick, but I think he paid way too much for the pump -- over $200. However, what's done is
done.
$200 is pretty close to what they cost wholesale and considering
how long they do last, probably worth every penny.
I priced one online last Saturday for $90. The one he got was
an Airtex.
teh Aritex costs $235 here i nSan Diego
Considering that the Fair Price in in the $200 price raqnge I don't
think I wpoudl trust a $90 fuel pump.
Cheep at ANY Price can lead one down the road to disaster.
I priced one online last Saturday for $90. The one he got was
an Airtex.
teh Aritex costs $235 here i nSan Diego
That's about what the SIL paid for it. Those guys dropped the gas
tank, waited for the rain to stop, installed the pump, waited for the
rain to stop, reinstalled the gas tank, test drove it and that was
that.
Considering that the Fair Price in in the $200 price raqnge I don't
think I wpoudl trust a $90 fuel pump.
Cheep at ANY Price can lead one down the road to disaster.
Neither would I. (-:
I'd trust it if it was a NIB genuine GM fuel pump. There are others
online
for a mere $62 and change which I'd question the origin of and the 'rebuilder' origin if that cheap one is a rebuilt pump.
I'd trust it if it was a NIB genuine GM fuel pump. There are others
online
for a mere $62 and change which I'd question the origin of and the
'rebuilder' origin if that cheap one is a rebuilt pump.
Speaking from experience in dealing with cheap parts, go with the
more expensive trusted part.
Especially when the work involved to replace the part is extensive.
I was burned by "Made In China" wheel bearings that I installed in my Monte Carlo years ago. They lasted just a month or so over (1) year before falling apart.
After re-replacing them, went with a "Made In USA" Timken bearing,
and been going strong for 3+ years and counting.
Costs about $40 more than made in China garbage, but that is a small
price when you consider it takes hours each time to replace.
You could have used a Japanese bearing and had the same quality, but less RW>cost. I used to rebuild IBM hard drives (12" discs) and used a Japanese RW>bearing in place of the original. They were just as good. The bearings RW>that IBM used had to be bought in matched pairs and cost an arm and a leg. RW>I used non-matched bearings and had no complaints.
You could have used a Japanese bearing and had the same quality, but
less cost. I used to rebuild IBM hard drives (12" discs) and used a
Japanese bearing in place of the original. They were just as good.
The bearings that IBM used had to be bought in matched pairs and
cost an arm and a leg. I used non-matched bearings and had no
complaints.
Well in some cases "matched bearings" are manditory if one does not
want a early failure.
I am thinking of my experieces with Gyroscopes used in navigation equipment. They of course spun up much higher speeds than the Old
Hard Drives, Up to 24,000 RPM
I always look for a bargain when it comes to buying parts, but almost always reject anything made in China. It used to be that way with
Japanese
parts some 40+ years ago, but they have come a long way since. Even they don't buy Chinese parts, but have their's made in South Korea, where
labor
is cheap and Japanese quality requirements is followed.
I had replaced the starter in my 72 Chevy Cheyenne with rebuilt starters from a local parts store. They lasted about a year and then failed. The starter was cheap enough to buy, but the labor to replace it was mine and
I don't like to do any more than I have to.
Buying American is good practice, but good American is sometimes hard to come by. I always try to buy American, but there are things that just aren't made here anymore.